Repair rust on the car
Easy Repair

Repair rust and rust holes

The problem Eye-piercing, perforated, large-rusted bodywork. Nobody wants to drive more but nobody wants to throw it away because the car is technically still in good shape.
Attention: Rust holes on load-bearing parts such as manholes, underbody struts and side rails must under no circumstances be leveled with filler. This damage must necessarily be welded by a specialist.
Difficulty:
demanding ;
Time spent:
5-8h ;
Costs:
200 € ;
savings:
1000 € ;
Additional tool:
Grinder hand tools ;
Easy Repair – SET for you: Repair film set rust and rust holes
And this is how it works:

Remove rust

Get away with the rust and just repair the body yourself. Completely remove rust, protruding, loose sheet metal parts and chipping paint layers.
Dry sandpaper – coarse grain size P 60 – wrap around a sanding block and sand the rust spots over a large area. There should not be any rust on the car anymore. Where there was rust before, it now has to shine sparkling!
Then thoroughly clean the area with silicone remover.

Sand rust spots absolutely bare

Sand rust spots absolutely bare – no rust should be visible

cement

On the sparkling, perfectly polished and cleaned with silicone remover spot can now be applied putty .
Fiber putty (putty with polyester threads) adheres great to the metal and is inherently stable due to the fine fibers. And this is how it’s done: Paint the fiber putty on a piece of cardboard and add hardener. The right dosage is important. If you use too much hardener, the putty attracts too quickly and can no longer be processed, take too little, it does not harden. How’s it done right, shows you in the movie Max.
Spread the filler generously and over a large area onto the perforated surface.

Apply putty

Apply putty, allow to dry and sand

Grinding After 30 minutes, the putty has hardened and you can dry off the superfluous putty with coarse sandpaper to restore the original shape of the body.
Everything that should not be primed and painted, again protect against spray!
Simply use masking paper and masking tape (see film).
Fine work After everything has been sanded flat, balance out existing craters and sanding marks with filler or spray filler .
The small ball in the can has to move easily and loosely.
On the can comes the handle. This works like a spray gun and facilitates the work enormously
Danger:
Primer, filler and paints are indeed dangerous according to the manufacturer, but certainly not intended for the lungs – so wear protective mask !
Easy Repair Professional tip: It’s easier and faster with a grinder or cordless drill with attachment .This works great, is more fun and saves a lot of time. Three minutes with the grinder save 20 minutes of painstaking manual work. Protect all parts that are not to be ground with masking tape.
Priming Now spray the filler in several thin layers (3 – 5).
Allow to air for 2 to 3 minutes between spraying. The ideal spray distance is 30 cm, the ideal temperature 15 to 20 degrees. 30 minutes after the last spray the filler has hardened and it can be ground off with sandpaper (P500), sponge and a bucket of water (see film) of the excess filler.
Careful work is very important here, all bumps must be ground flat.
Feeling is announced! Do not sand through on putty or sheet metal, otherwise this area must be primed again.

Finely grind ground filler

Spray primer and sand flat with fine sandpaper

Painting If the primer is applied, dry (after approx. 20 min.) And sanded, color finally comes into play with the repair varnish or paint spray !
Shake the paint spray vigorously for 5 minutes until the ball stops audibly and everything is well mixed.Attach the handle and paint thinly in several layers.
The ideal spray distance is 30 cm, the ideal temperature 15 to 20 degrees.
Attention! Do not spray on too much at once, otherwise there will be tearing of the running paint … In the film, Max shows step by step how to do it right.
Clearcoat – Topcoat After approx. 30 min. Drying time comes the clearcoat over the paint layer.
Also shake the clear coat well again and apply it in several layers (it should be at least 5) thin and let it air after each spray pass.
The clearcoat protects the metallic particles from oxidation, it makes the paint shine and is absolutely necessary as a protective layer.
Attention! For varnishes no clear coat is required.
In case of uncertainty, either e-mail max@dasauto.at or call the hotline (+43 (0) 3687 24515 during business hours).
Almost done From the outside, your car is back in top shape, but on the inside of the blank, the sheet is now susceptible to new rust.
That’s why you need to conserve this area.
You will achieve very good results with rope fat. Rope fat is the simple, ideal solution for preservation and cavity protection and available as a spray in the 1-liter Euro can and in the 5-liter container in the shop.
After about 1 hour drying time, the clear coat is hard enough to remove the masking paper.
… and – Voila! The result is impressive!
Finished ? If you still find small edges or transitions in the paint somewhere, then that’s no problem: after 2 to 3 days, the clear coat is completely cured and the edge is simply removed very carefully with water- sanding paper P2000 and then polished to a high gloss.
Of course you will now polish the whole car and with hard wax.